Montana Comes Home at Sage Lodge
Montana comes home at Sage Lodge in Pray, aptly nestled in Paradise Valley. If you look up the word ‘lodge,’ you’ll find something like ‘a grand structure that fits naturally into the environment.’ Montana is almost synonymous with the word lodge. If you close your eyes and envision some of your favorite movies that take place in Montana, like Legends of the Fall, A River Runs Through It, or The Horse Whisperer —or the hot new show Yellowstone from Paramount— the steadfast lodge quickly emerges. As though the mountains hold it in their palm, the lodge is like an anchor to the rolling hills —golden in the summer or sparkling white in the winter. It’s at home with the dazzling rivers full of fish, the plateaus roamed by bison and elk, and the blue skies as far as the eye can see —an occasional eagle gliding above. This may be why, when you turn onto the quiet road that winds you up to Sage Lodge, your heart skips a beat. It’s subtle at first because you only see an iron sign with a cutout of a mountain (the Sage Lodge logo) which outlines the mountains behind it, but as the scenery unfolds you begin to feel a sense of home.
Arriving at Sage Lodge
As you arrive you will find all the luxuries that also make Sage Lodge a resort destination. It’s located on the banks of the Yellowstone River, about 35 minutes from Yellowstone National Park, and offers a perfect base for a vacation full of fly fishing, hiking, biking, hunting, cross-country skiing, or star gazing. The Lodge guestrooms and Ranch Houses were inspired by fishermen and outdoorsmen, and are surrounded by hiking/biking trails, overlooking a stocked and picturesque casting pond. There is also a full-service spa, two restaurants, and a great little gift shop. The Sage Lodge also boasts a full array of activities, such as Yellowstone tours, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, fly fishing (including float trips, walk & wades nearby or at Yellowstone, lessons, and fly tying), hiking and biking, horseback riding, helicopter and hot air balloon rides, rafting and paddle boarding, dog sledding, star gazing, arts and crafts, and yoga! You’ll never be bored.
I had the pleasure of visiting in late summer when the surrounding hills were an amber hue, and a few raucous and imposing thunderstorms lit up the evening sky. We arrived exhausted, having powered through Glacier National Park the day before. We rolled in wearing our hiking boots, our truck coated in mud, and felt right at home. The entrance to the Lodge is enormous and opens into a grandiose open space all in rustic wood. I was delighted to see signs everywhere about what to do and what to see. It’s obvious from the get-go that they are experts in Montana adventure. There are the classic Western touches you’d expect, the paintings of bison on the range, cowboy and horse statues, elk horns, and trout paintings, and then there’s a window that covers one whole wall, showcasing Emigrant Peak. It’s a breathtaking view. Of course, I saw it in the summer, but I imagine it’s even more astounding in the winter.
The Rooms
We had a room on the ground floor of the Lodge, with a door leading out to the casting pond and resplendent views. The rooms are comfortable and cozy with everything you need, including a fireplace, but to be honest we didn’t spend much time in our room. We sat outside with a glass of wine while we watched the late afternoon sun dance across the pond and made our plans for the evening. First stop, dinner at The Grill, a full restaurant and bar, Montana style, with a wood-fired grill and indoor/outdoor vantage points. It’s a short walk to the restaurant from the lodge, and it was here that I gathered how they got their name. The scent of sage is unique. Known for cleansing, its mere presence brings a sense of rejuvenation. As you walk the path to The Grill smokey green sage lines the path, and against the now purpling sky, I once again felt a flutter in my chest.
Dining
This short but somewhat spiritual journey was quickly transformed as we walked into the bustling Grill. The enormous bar was edged with jovial diners wearing cowboy hats and enjoying large glasses of wine, beer, and shots of whiskey. It’s a guess, but I imagine some of them were locals. We were greeted by a delightful server, who did an excellent job helping us choose a great bottle of wine and an exceptional dinner. The menu is unique with an Italian influence nuanced with French flavors. There are no charred steaks and fries here. Instead, you’ll find steak tartare, mouth-watering elk, and a unique Italian wine selection. The Wood Roasted Mushroom Ragout goes down as one of my favorite appetizers of all time —excellent. The attention to the big flavors and red meat is clearly here, which is what you would expect for fine dining in Montana, but it’s the small surprises that make it special. Such as delicate baby beet sprouts and local zucchini ribbons, and a sauce served in a small copper pitcher reminiscent of something you’d find at a cowboy’s fire.
I must tip my hat to Chef Jacqueline Macedonio, who was the chef at The Grill the night we were there. Truly everything was five-star. Macedonio is the Sous Chef at The Grill, however, William Conroy is the chef, coming from Sorrel River Ranch (a Forbes-rated property) and spent time with five-star and five-diamond resorts like The Little Nell in Aspen. (A recent article featuring Conroy can be found Here.)
Things To Do
Just outside The Grill are some large boulders. As we left the restaurant the sun was setting, so we perched on one of the rocks and watched it unfold across the valley. As wonderful as this was, we were anxious to get back to our room so we could prepare for our next adventure. Star gazing! We changed back into our hiking boots, donned our headlamps, and grabbed some bear spray from the front desk. Yes, there are some small black bears in the area, and I for one was hoping we’d get to see one ambling across the hills. There are 1,200 acres surrounding the Lodge, with well-marked trails easily navigated at any hour of the day or night. We walked as far as the last cow gate leading before heading back. We didn’t get to see any bears, but we enjoyed listening to the bats and birds and gazed longingly at the stars.
In the morning we enjoyed a hearty breakfast before taking a bike tour of the property. Exhilarating is an understatement as you fly down a rock-strewn path, wind in your hair, and mountains at your back. Many bring their own bikes, but the Lodge has electric Turbo Levo mountain bikes you can rent, and it’s worth every penny! The bike made quick work of the trail we’d walked the night before, and we completed the loop of trails around the property in a short period of time. With a stop at the Chico Cemetery where you can see a touching veteran tribute to a 1962 B-47 bomber that crashed on Emigrant Peak in July of 1963 while doing maneuvers. That afternoon we headed down to Yellowstone. The Lodge is about 35 miles from the north gate, but unfortunately, this gate was closed to cars at the time we were there (immediately following a historic flood event in June of 2022), however, all gates are now open. We did hike in for a few miles, an adventure I will never forget.
Back at the Lodge, we had dinner at the Fireside Room, located in the Lodge and available for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We sat outside by a fire, pastoral light from every view, with mountain shadows dancing across the landscape of sage, golden yellow, and sun-bleached gray. The sunset illuminated my glass of wine, while we dined with cowboys, ranchers, and smiling tourists speaking in a variety of languages. You may see squash necklaces and 10-gallon hats here, but you also see families wearing galoshes splattered with mud, tired hikers toasting an eventful day, and someone’s chocolate lab snoozing in front of the fire. It is absolutely dog friendly, and even the staff brings their pups to work.
Back in our room, we were entertained by a thunderstorm that rolled in across the mountains. The skies split open, and lightning filled the sky. The bed in our room faced the glass doors, giving us a front-row seat to nature on display across grand Montana.
As you can imagine, we slept very well, waking to blue skies. After a fantastic breakfast at The Fireside (I highly recommend the French toast), we packed our bags and checked out. We had a full day ahead visiting Yellowstone before heading back to Washington.
The Sage Lodge offers 38 accommodations, including 34 guestrooms, and four stand-alone Ranch Houses with four guestrooms each. I can imagine it would be a great place for a wedding, company event, or family vacation. The Ranch Houses are 2,783 square feet and include several rooms with king-size beds and sleeper sofas. There is also The Spa at Sage Lodge which unfortunately we did not have time to enjoy, however, I walked through the spa, and it did not disappoint. There are lovely quiet spaces, including a jaw-dropping outdoor hot tub with a spectacular view of Emigrant Peak, and the menu is extensive. I would imagine sitting in that hot tub after a massage with snow falling all around, would be heavenly. You can bet we will be back for a winter visit! With sweeping vistas of rolling rivers and majestic mountains as far as the eye can see, Montana comes home at the Sage Lodge.
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